Doctor of Philosophy (PhD)


Textile, Apparel & Merchandising

Document Type



The purpose of this study was to categorize lower body shape in men and to investigate the interplay between body shape and fitting issues appearing in men’s jeans. More specifically, the goal of the study was to improve apparel fit based on body shape. The detailed objectives of the study were to: (1) Categorize male body shapes using statistical analysis; (2) use 3D virtual fitting technology to assess fit and develop a shape-driven pants block pattern for each body shape.

This quantitative study was conducted in three stages: (1) categorizing the body shape of 1420 male scans, aged 18-35, from the SizeUSA dataset, (2) develop a shape-driven pants block pattern for each identified body shape, and (3) validate the developed blocks by virtually trying the shape-driven block pattern on fit testers from different body shape groups.

Exploratory Factor Analysis (EFA) and cluster analysis were used for body shape categorization, which resulted in three different body shapes: (1) Flat-Straight, (2) Moderate Curvy-Straight, and (3) Curvy. Three fit models were selected from each identified body shape group and then patterns were developed using Armstrong’s (2005) jeans foundation method. Patterns were modified and fitted to the selected representative fit models of each body shape group. The developed shape-driven block patterns were simulated on the fit testers to further explore the relationship between body shape and fit issues.

This study suggests that two individuals with identical body measurements may experience very different fit problems tailored to their different body shapes. It was found that each body shape would exclusively experience unique fit issues. Furthermore, the shape driven block patterns were found to be highly correlated with their host body shape category. This research implies that if the mass customization process starts with block patterns that are engineered for specific body shape categories significantly less fit issues would appear and the desired fit would be achieved in fewer fitting sessions.



Committee Chair

Romeo, Laurel

Included in

Agriculture Commons